beginning with a Framus FS 1000 vintage PSG

[Jan Godde]

hello there! I'm new to this forum, and completely new to pedal steel guitars - happy to be here!

i just bought my first used PSG – a Framus FS-1000 from the late 60s or the 70s. a Frank Baum design, i think. five pedals, one knee lever (left/right only). it seems to be in good condition, but i'm just starting to learn how these wonderful instruments even work (this is a dream becoming true), and i could use some advice.

hope i bought a good instrument. as i'm not based in the US, it's pretty hard to find a PSG around here. here it is:

framus1000_01.jpg

framus1000_02.jpg

framus1000_03.jpg

framus1000_04.jpg

does anybody know what kind of pickup this is? i'm assuming it's a single coil?


i am guessing i should take it apart and clean it, but i don't want to damage anything with the wrong chemicals. for example the part the strings run on that moves when pushing pedals/levers, i think they're called the changer fingers, no? they seem a bit greasy, and maybe i have to take them apart, clean them and apply new grease. it seems possible, but i'm neither mechanic nor luthier. i'll read a bit through the forum to find out how to do it. setup and cleaning, that is. i don't know yet what even doing a proper setup on a PSG means. i'll find out. if you have any quick advice though, enlighten me
(there's really no guitar repair shops around here who can do that for me, or at least none that would be affordable)


the pedals/levers seem to do a different job then most more modern PSGs (is what i found online).
i made a quick chart for this instrument:

framus1000_chart.png

is the setup for this pedal steel a correct one? is it some (old?) standard or has it been modified?
and can you actually change what the pedals/levers do by re-arranging the rods?


here are some problems i encountered with this instrument:

• P3 detunes string nr 6 (the G#) a little bit down by approx 15-20 cents, but that string should be unaffected - that seems to be a mechanical problem, right? is it easy to solve? I read randomly in a youtube video description that there is something called “cabinet drop” - is this what's happening here, and can you improve it?

• P5 detunes both G# down, but not in the same way, it detunes the lower G# (string nr 6) correctly by approx -50 cents, but the upper G# (string 3) is brought down only by approx 25-30 cents

• RKR doesn't quite reach 50 cents up for both E strings, it's more like 30 cents up

any advice on how to fix these issues?


maybe an important info, but i'm not sure: the guitar was disassembled for storage and reassembled, and the preowner wasn't sure which of the rods were connected to which pedal, but the rods all seem to be the same. are the rods interchangeable?


also, could someone maybe shortly introduce me to how the screws work and how you tune the pedals/levers? some of the spring-equipped screws underneath the guitar seem to move easily by hand, others are hard to move. i guess they are there for tuning the pedals and levers, no? and could someone maybe explain to me what exactly the screws on the right side of the instrument do? there are two rows of screws – is it for intonation/finetuning or is it connected to the mechanical detuning?


Oh, and – any advice for an absolute beginner for learning pedal steel? I'm a guitarist, and i'm more into jazz and experimental, a little bit into country and less into blues/rock. however the genre, i'd like to learn first how to pluck the strings correctly, as i find that pretty hard already with my finger picks - the strings seem to be very close. I bought finger picks with an angled blade, if that changes anything. I have a dunlop 921 bar slide, which is pretty heavy, but still i find to have a lot of short-sustained/buzzing/blocked strings even when i constantly mute the strings left of the bar slide. these kind of things, basic pedal steel techniques. looking around on Youtube?


hope to soon be able to learn on a PSG that is playable

any help, guidance, info is very appreciated. thanks to anybody who reads through this!

[J D Sauser]

At it's core, it's a "Day Setup". The first 3 pedals being the basic E9th pedals.
Most play an "Emmons Setup" where the first 3 pedals of your setup are organized in the inverted order from yours.
Pedal "A" raising the B's to C#, then Pedal "B" raising the G#'s to A and finally Pedal C rasing the top B&E a whole step.

Buddy EMMONS and Jimmy DAY where the two guy mostly credited for taking the 1955 E9th imagined by Bud Isaacs to the next level. Pedals A & B were originally ONE pedal. They split them and Buddy Emmons put A to the left of B and Jimmy Day A to the RIGHT of B... hence, your's is a "Day Setup".
It's totally playable... I would guess that still today about 1/4 of guitars go out ordered as a "Day Setup".

Just know that the pedals are named A, B & C and that on your guitar they are lined up C, B & A. So in playing position, your left foot should be ready to hit your 2nd and 3rd pedal from the left "B & A". If you play the A-pedal only, you'll do so with the right edge of your foot, and B with the left edge... so that you are always able to press BOTH B&A down TOGETHER any time.

The knee levers on the Right knee do the correct basic things. The lever lowering the E's half is often played in conjunction with the B-Pedal and the opposite lever raising your E's half often with the A-Pedal.

IF you are mechanically inclined understanding leverages, the mechanism could be switched around to A, B, C (the more common "Emmons Setup"). Basically photograph the pull rod positions at each bell crank and at the changer. You may also put tape tags on the bell cranks. Loosen the bell crank and align them with the pulls just as they were. You only need to change the 1st and 3d pedal around.
I seem to see that you are writing out of Germany. Here is a web page which seems to claim that they are still dealing with them: https://www.framus-vintage.de/en/Other- ... dal-Steel/ . I would hope they can provide you with a tuning manual for the mechanism which I SUSPECT may be similar to a Sho-Bud FINGER TIP? Here's their contact form: https://www.framus-vintage.de/en/Informations/Contact/

There are several PSG players in Germany and Holland, I am sure one could help with the re-setup.
Alternatively there is WBS https://www.wbssteelguitars.com in Germany and Schild https://schildsteel.com , both manufacturers which I would hope should be able to help you with that, should you choose to want to start on the more common "Emmons Setup".

The other 2 pedals are common changes which would usually be found on extra knee levers. Don't worry about that. They are usable on those pedals... for a beginner there's more than enough to raise all hell on your neighborhood!

THIS guy seems to have the same pedal setup on his first 4 pedals and levers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sRLEY-PPi34



The German built Framus (later ABM) was a well built guitar, speaking of materials and machining. The mechanisms were lagging quite a bit behind the innovations which were coming up in the US in its time.
But if you got the guitar for not too much money and she "sounds good" it will certainly work a student/startup instrument.

Good clan up and lube job (sewing machine oil is just fine), NEW strings, tune up, plug in and... go at it!... J-D.

[Dave Magram]

Hello Jan,

Welcome to the wonderful, wacky world of pedal steel guitar!

In answer to some of your questions…
******************************************************************************************

i just bought my first used PSG – a Framus FS-1000 from the late 60s or the 70s. it seems to be in good condition, but i'm just starting to learn how these wonderful instruments even work (this is a dream becoming true), and i could use some advice.

I believe that your Framus FS-1000 guitar uses a “pull-release” changer mechanism to change the pitch of the strings.
● “Pull-release” changers are an older mechanism that was used in old Sho-Buds and Marlens—both of which are considered to have very good tonal qualities.
● Changer mechanisms evolved to “push-pull” changers used on the original Emmons Guitars, and then “all-pull” changers used on most modern pedal steels--because they offer more choices in raising and lowering string pitches.
******************************************************************************************

the pedals/levers seem to do a different job then most more modern PSGs (is what i found online).

As JD Sauser explained, your pedal setup is called a “Day” pedal setup.
Besides Jimmy Day himself, other master players such as John Hughey, Hal Rugg, Weldon Myrick, Tommy White all used a “Day” pedal setup—so there is nothing wrong with it!
Although I have always used the “Buddy Emmons” pedal setup (because that’s what I started with), I believe that the “Day” pedal setup is more ergonomic.
● Since you say you have very little mechanical knowledge of pedal steels, it can be a very big and tricky job to convert to a different pedal setup. It is likely that you will get something wrong and your guitar will be unplayable until you find someone who has pedal steel repair expertise, and you may need to pay a lot of money so they can set it right.
● Unless you have unusual difficulty with rotating your ankles inward due to an injury or some genetic abnormality, if it was me, I’d stay with the “Day” pedal setup.
******************************************************************************************

i am guessing i should take it apart and clean it, but i don't want to damage anything with the wrong chemicals. for example the part the strings run on that moves when pushing pedals/levers, i think they're called the changer fingers, no? they seem a bit greasy, and maybe i have to take them apart, clean them and apply new grease. it seems possible, but i'm neither mechanic nor luthier.

Unless there is old dried-up grease (white lithium grease is perhaps the worst) that is causing the changer fingers to stick and not move properly, I would not take the changer apart.
● It is likely that you will get something wrong or lose a part and your guitar will be unplayable until you find someone who has pedal steel repair expertise, and you may need to pay a lot of money so they can set it right.
● If they are sticking a little bit, there are a number of posts on the SGF about how to clean out most of the gunk with naptha or some other chemicals--without removing the changer from the guitar.

Assuming your changer fingers are working properly, just a drop of light oil or regular Teflon (PTFE) lubricant (not the kind they sell in bicycle shops that has paraffin wax added to it!) between each changer finger is all that you need on an annual basis.
● Another critical area to check for freedom of movement are the roller-nuts; again use just a drop of light oil or Teflon lube beside each roller-nut once a year.
● There are many posts (and debates) about lubrication on the SGF; Greg Cutshaw provide step-by-step advice on how to do it on his website at: https://www.gregcutshaw.com/
******************************************************************************************

maybe an important info, but i'm not sure: the guitar was disassembled for storage and reassembled, and the preowner wasn't sure which of the rods were connected to which pedal, but the rods all seem to be the same. are the rods interchangeable?

Pedal rods are normally adjusted so that all of the pedals bottom out at the same height from the floor, usually an inch or 1-1/2” from the floor.
● It looks like there are paper tags on your pedal rods; the way to test if those are labeled correctly is to see if all of the pedals bottom out at the same height from the floor.
If they do, then I would number the rods 1, 2, 3, etc., to make it easier to assemble your pedal steel.
******************************************************************************************

here are some problems i encountered with this instrument:
P3 detunes string nr 6 (the G#) a little bit down by approx 15-20 cents, but that string should be unaffected - that seems to be a mechanical problem, right? is it easy to solve? I read randomly in a youtube video description that there is something called “cabinet drop” - is this what's happening here, and can you improve it?

A 15-20 cents drop does sound like a significant issue.
In the photos, it appears that the body of guitar is an metal frame, which I would think should reduce the possibility of "cabinet drop".
Perhaps the 5th string changer finger is rubbing against the 6th string changer finger?
It would be helpful if you could have an experienced steel guitar player or repair-person look it over, either in-person or via Zoom, to diagnose it.
******************************************************************************************

Oh, and – any advice for an absolute beginner for learning pedal steel? I'm a guitarist, and i'm more into jazz and experimental, a little bit into country and less into blues/rock. however the genre, i'd like to learn first how to pluck the strings correctly, as i find that pretty hard already with my finger picks - the strings seem to be very close.
I bought finger picks with an angled blade, if that changes anything. I have a dunlop 921 bar slide, which is pretty heavy, but still i find to have a lot of short-sustained/buzzing/blocked strings even when i constantly mute the strings left of the bar slide. these kind of things, basic pedal steel techniques. looking around on Youtube?

One of the biggest challenges of playing pedal steel is learning to block (mute) the strings, which is mostly done with your picking-hand, not with the bar.

I have developed a 40 page Steel Guitar Blocking Guide that includes recommendations on fingerpick blade-angles, and about 60 YouTube videos of master steel guitarists so that you can see how they block the strings.

I'd be happy to send you a copy of my Blocking Guide at no charge…
If you are interested, please send me your email address via PM (Private Message):
● Click on the hollow green bubble with three dots shown after "Contact" next to my name on the upper right corner of this posting, and then click on the solid green PM thought bubble that is displayed on the left--because the SGF email doesn't allow attachments such as a Word document or PDF.
For your own protection, please do not post your email address in a public SGF thread—there are lots of nefarious web-bots looking for personal info to steal.

- Dave

[Chris Brooks]

Jan, note that your 3 basic pedals (termed A, B, C) are the 3 middle ones. The 2 pedals on either side are extra pedals. They are good changes to have, though, especially the G#s to Gs.

And as Dave and JD point out, your Framus pedals utilize the "Day setup", named for pioneer Jimmy Day. That is, pedal order from left to right is C, B, A. I'd recommend just leaving them alone. Play it that way.

In the same vein, taking apart the changer mechanism, rods, etc. will soon lead to madness. Use naphtha to loosen up the gunk (it looks pretty clean, from the photos), then lube, then look for places where mechanism is binding or rubbing.

Also, try to cultivate relationships with steelers in your area, or at least in Germany and Netherlands.

[Chris Brooks]

>five pedals, one knee lever (left/right only).

It has two knee levers, right? RKL (right knee left); and RKR?

Again, you have all the pedals and levers you need. Clean 'em up and start playing.

[Tucker Jackson]

Hi, Jan. Looks like a nice guitar. If you need mechanical work done on your guitar, you may be able to to send it to WBS in Germany in Rechtenbach. I'm not sure if they will work on a Framus, but you can check
https://wbssteelguitars.com/index.php?page=home&lan=

Some of your problems getting the levers to hit the target pitch may be related to the unusual tuning method required to tune a Pull Release mechanism.

I'm not an expert on it but do know that it is a little tricky and it is difficult to understand.

For example, the highest note that any string raises to is tuned using the normal tuning keys.

That means, for example, on your 5th string, you have the A-pedal (on your guitar, that's Pedal 3) that raises from B to C#. You would press down this pedal and tune the C# note at the keyhead. You would then release the pedal and tune the open B-note at the other end of the guitar. On the Framus, it looks like it would be those finger-screws by the changer mechanism.

On strings that lower with a pedal or knee lever, you would probably tune the lower note with the finger-screws first, then tune the regular open note at the keyhead using the normal tuning keys.

That's just a partial explanation because you have two pedals that raise the 5th string, so I don't know on the Framus how to tune your Pedal 1, the C-pedal (probably using an adjustment under the guitar).

We need some of the pull release tuning experts here on the Forum to post to this thread to fill in the missing information on how to tune this type of instrument.

[Jan Godde]

Wow, I didn't expect to actually get so many answers in quite a short time. And the quality of your answers is amazing. So much valuable information. Thank you people! it really helps to get started.

oh, and Chris: yes of course, it has two knee levers

one thing i'm not sure i'm understanding are the screws underneath the guitar - it seems every pedal mechanism has one spring-loaded screw (and each of the lever mechanisms two spring-loaded screws) that you can use for adjusting the angle of the movement of the mechanism, which also translates to the pitch. you can see them on the photos. this is probably for setting the pedal/lever range, right? semitone or whole tone. so i'll use this for setting the range? and then use the keyheads (left) and the fingerscrews (right, close to the changerfingers) like you explained, Tucker? seems doable. i'll try!

and yes. i will not change pedal mechanics. that's not for me (yet). i'll start setting it up as good as i can and start learning

speaking of which: Dave, i'd love to read your blocking guide. i sent you a PM.
and thanks for the tip with the Teflon/PTFE!

oh, and the rods actually are not at same height, thats really something i'll have to adjust by screws. but the rods are all of the same length, so i guess they are interchangeable, no?

[Dave Magram]

oh, and the rods actually are not at same height, thats really something i'll have to adjust by screws. but the rods are all of the same length, so i guess they are interchangeable, no?

Jan, I'm going to try and clarify my explanation about pedal rod height before you start adjusting the pedal rods:
Pedal rods are normally adjusted so that all of the pedals bottom out at the same height from the floor, usually an inch or 1-1/2” from the floor.

I'm not familiar with Framus guitars, but normally there is a way to adjust the length of each pedal rod. This is because you need the each pedal to "bottom out" at the same distance from the floor so that your foot can feel when they are fully engaged (meaning "at the end of their downward travel").

Here's how to check if they are "bottoming out" at the same distance from the floor:
● Kneel on the floor and press down on each pedal with one had until it has traveled downward as far as it can go. (When it stops, it should be a firm stop. If the stop isn't firm, you may need to adjust the "pedal-stop machine screw" so that stop is firm.)
● Next, with a ruler in your other hand, measure the distance from the bottom of each firmly-stopped pedal to the floor. Each pedal should be at least an inch or 1-1/2 inch above the floor; because you do not want them to bottom out on the floor!
● If several pedals are bottoming out wildly off from that distance, try switching the pedal rods around to see if they were mis-labelled--because the pedal rods need to be of different lengths, depending if the pedal is changing the pitch by a whole-step (such as B to C#), or a half-step ( G# to A).
● If switching the pedal rods doesn't help, you will need to figure out how to adjust the length of the pedal rods so that all of pedals bottom out at same height above the floor.

After you have all of the pedals bottoming out at the same distance from the floor, don't worry if they are not all at the same height when you are not stepping on them...
● If all of your pedals bottom out at the same height when you are stepping on them, the pedals with a longer whole-step travel are going to be a bit higher than the pedals that travel only a half-step when you are not stepping on them--which is perfectly normal.

Does this explanation help?

- Dave